Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
European settlement along the Hawkesbury River commenced in 1794, as colonists established settlements near South Creek and along the riverbanks, unintentionally limiting access for the First Nations people. Governor Phillip initially opposed this due to the area’s isolation and lack of “suitable settlers”.
However, more land was eventually granted, which significantly impacted the traditional custodians, the Darug and Darkinjung people. As Kate Melville wrote in “The Secret River,” there were no visible signs of ownership among the Indigenous people.
Officially part of the NSW Central Coast, our journey through this richly historical landscape begins at Brooklyn, formerly known as Peat’s Ferry Crossing, named after the Union Bridge Company of Buffalo, New York, responsible for constructing the iconic bridge in 1889. This allowed Australians to traverse the river via train, although border crossings were not without complications. Before the bridge, the only access was by steam barge from Wondabyne, now one of Australia’s unique boat–only accessible stations, famously featured in the 2004 film, “Oyster Farmer.”
Exploring the islands and settlements along the river offers diverse experiences. Renting a tinny or jet–ski (to release the inner bogan in you) provides a thrilling adventure, but for a more leisurely exploration for seniors, the Riverboat Postman offers a charming daily mail delivery service to remote water–access settlements, including lunch and afternoon tea. It represents great value for your coin.
Throughout the cruise, the river unveils its historical narrative. Passing by Dangar Island with its post office and bowling club, devoid of cars except for a red golf buggy and a lone wheelbarrow for schlepping luggage or shopping to your digs, offers a quirky island walk. And flanking Spectacle Island, once a site for corroborees, now stands as a nature reserve with a significant collection of rock art.
We cruise past noteworthy landmarks like Mullet Creek, Kooroowall–Undi (Peat Island), Milsons Passage, and Milson Island, each bearing historical significance. HMAS Parramatta’s rusting wreck, Bar Point’s spirited settlement, and Fisherman’s Point’s history offer glimpses into the river’s vibrant past. Bar Island, known for its church ruins and Aboriginal shell–midden, invites visitors to explore the remnants of the area’s cultural heritage.
Another tour is Broken Bay Pearl Farm. Their tour provides an exclusive insight into pearl cultivation and allows for the indulgence in freshly harvested oysters, offering a unique perspective on the river’s economic prospects.
Post tour we make for Brooklyn’s famous, Anglers Rest Hotel. It’s a moment to cherish local flavours amid the picturesque riverside backdrop. There is a great Malaya restaurant in the pub and I recommend the spicy satay chicken.
For seniors without wheels, a day trip involving a train ride from Gosford, fish and chips across from Hawkesbury River Station, a refreshing swim, and a ride on the pension–friendly affordable Danger Island ferry can create a memorable, cost–effective experience by the river that won’t break the budget.
Groove Cruise
The team at The Riverboat Postman is proud to announce a new collaboration with the indefatigable Chris Martin Murphy of f2f Productions to bring live music to Sunday afternoons on the Hawkesbury River. Dust off your best dancing shoes and come and jive to some of Australia’s great blues, swing and jazz bands as you cruise the magnificent waterway. You can go by train, enjoy a few drinks on the boat, and be home in time for your Sunday roast! Details on their website.
Aw shucks! Broken Bay Pearl Farm.
For the oyster lovers. Discover the individual characteristics of the local Sydney Rock Oyster, the creamy Pacific Oyster and their very own seafood treasure, the Akoya pearl oyster through a guided tasting and shucking demonstration. Details on their website. Includes 2 – 4 oysters per person.
Handy websites and links –
www.riverboatpostman.com.au
www.riverboatpostman.com.au/groove-cruise-sundays
www.brokenbaypearlfarm.com.au
www.anglersresthotel.com.au