Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
The Southern Aurora was a renowned train service in Australia that operated in the 60s. It was a premier overnight train that linked Sydney and Melbourne, providing passengers with a luxurious mode of travel. Known for its distinctive streamlined design and high–quality service, it featured spacious sleeping cars and an elegant dining car where passengers could enjoy gourmet meals with a modest glass of moselle or claret.
Unfortunately, in 2003, the service was discontinued due to increased competition from air travel. But for vintage tragics like my wife and me, the Southern Aurora evokes a bygone era.
The club car lounge, adorned with 60s–era fauna murals (illuminated at night), exudes a nostalgic ambiance. Despite the strict no–smoking policy, a nod to the tobacco–friendly days of the ‘60s is evident with the presence of five repurposed ashtrays in the cabin. The cabins themselves have a cosy, cubbyhouse aesthetic, and the shower and old–school toilet, which remarkably folds into the wall.
The staff who prepare our rooms are all retired Qantas flight attendants, bringing a level of expertise to our journey. So no millennials on TikTok fetching that extra pillow for you; rather, well–groomed, seasoned attendants, calmly guiding you to the emergency exits over the wings.
One of the appeals of this journey for seniors is the fact that the train is stationary at night, ensuring a comfortable and stable night’s sleep without the lateral movement that might have you losing your balance in your sensible shoes. Moreover, for travelling singletons, there are cute–as–button single cabins, something unique to this train.
Our train journey is broken up by a series of daily tours, each offering a unique experience. Moreover, the dining on the Southern Aurora is a highlight. Meals are à la carte, offering culinary experience without unnecessary extravagance. (Seniors enjoy their menus without the extraneous adjectives, I find.) The average bottle of wine onboard, which is not included in your fare, is priced at a wallet–friendly forty bucks. Soft drinks and coffee are free.
Interestingly, at each historic country station stop, we are ‘papped’. Train enthusiasts, referred to as “spotters,” set their tripods ready to capture the train’s grandeur. The old Southern Aurora is a rock–star in the train world.
After a delicious brekkie of local Trunkey bacon, we head to Hunter Valley Gardens. Here we’re immersed in a world of natural beauty. Post roses it’s a wine tasting at Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard; one of the oldest vineyards in the Hunter. Their vibrant bold wines are matched with delicious local cheeses. I’m lactose intolerant but I’ve decided it’s the way I want to go.
We then reboard to chug to the railway town of Werris Creek. Here, I have the privilege of meeting Gwen, the president of the railway association, who graciously leads me around the railway museum and onto a place that carries deep significance — a poignant memorial honouring the railway workers who lost their lives. Indeed, Gwen’s own husband, Neville, lost
his legs in a rail accident, aged 22 at the time.
The following morning, we breakfast at pretty Hillside Orchard, Orange. Here, with the freshest apple juice in hand, we meet with the lanky orchardist and talk all things orcharding before our next adventure via a wonderful 1947 vintage clipper, couching guests to their daily adventures.
Next, Mayfield Garden. It stands as one of Australia’s best cool climate gardens and offers a breathtaking expanse spanning across 16 hectares. It’s quite Anglocentric in its design; the meticulously crafted landscapes, featuring stunning gardens, captivating water features, and charming follies.
Then it’s all aboooard as the Southern Aurora chugs east towards the coast. Then just before Lithgow, incongruously we head north. But how? Passenger trains don’t head north here. One of the unique features of this journey is you take freight lines, unavailable to the public. As we relax in our cabin with a glass of plonk, we see breathtaking secret backdoor views of the Blue Mountains across the Jamison Valley.
Then it’s Rylstone Olive Press. A trip highlight, it showcases the finest burst–in–your–mouth produce this plucky region has to offer. Here our antipasto is generously matched with a crisp local Elephant Mountain Pino Gris.
And, sadly, it’s here our journey ends. There is talk of opening the line from Rylstone to Mudgee, now rusting and overgrown with weeds. It would be positive for the region as these vintage train journeys bring much needed city coin to country Australia.
But as I return, watching the blond countryside of the New South Wales Central West scroll past my train window, I find myself reflecting on what I truly love about train travel. There’s a romance to it, a sense of nostalgia that’s hard to find on a Jetstar flight to Bali.
What sets train travel apart is the subtle changes in the landscape. The gradual transition from one scene to another, from city to countryside and back again; a journey unto itself. But, most of all, I like the solitude and contemplation that trains offer. In a world dominated by screens and digital distractions, the absence of a screen in my life is a welcome respite, while the gentle motion and metallic soundscape becomes a backdrop to my thoughts.
When you introduce a vintage train into the equation, it magnifies this romance and nostalgia. It awakens a longing for a gentler era, a time when life was unhurried and the pursuit of instant gratification was not the prevailing ethos.
Vintage trains transport us to a bygone world, inviting us to immerse ourselves in the timeless beauty of a more deliberate and contemplative journey.
It’s no wonder that trains have been the backdrops for so many cinematic tales – and why so few films are set on buses.
Caterpillaring into Central Station, we say farewell to the Southern Aurora to overnight at funky Adina Chippendale, where our fascination with mid–century retro continues. With its galah–coloured interior, Parker furniture aesthetic, sepia photos of hard–nosed 60s Redfern and giant flamingo pool toy it’s the perfect inner–city pool–side hotel to decompress before heading home.
For more information, visit www.vintagerailjourneys.com.au
Singletons: Vintage Rail Journeys offers passengers travelling on their own a cosy single bed cabin to themselves – this is unique to the Southern Aurora.
Commence and conclude in Sydney: This means you don’t need to fly interstate to pick up the train. The trip is contained locally for NSW residents.
Restful Nights: Admire scenic views by day, rest comfortably by night on stabled trains so no bumpy night’s sleep!
A Fresh Perspective: Discover nsw unseen from the road, witness unique vistas, and traverse unreachable areas by car.
Extra Accommodation: rriving late by train can be tiresome. Adina Sydney Chippendale is just a short 5–minute taxi ride away from Central Station and has recently undergone a hip transformation. The hotel boasts a blend of contemporary and retro interior designs, providing guests with a unique ambiance. Its convenient location amidst Chippo’s vibrant trendy cafes, groovy eateries, and art galleries, makes it a good pre/post train option.