Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
There’s something about the South Coast that makes you breathe differently. Perhaps it’s the salt–laced air or the endless horizon stretching beyond Norfolk Pines but stepping into our luxury suite at Banisters feels like entering a coastal magazine spread come to life. King–size comfort wrapped in raffles–era bamboo and coastal art, with sheer cotton curtains dancing in the sea breeze like nature’s own theatre.
The long hush of the sea provides the soundtrack whilst views of the ocean, framed by whispering casuarinas and curling dragon trees, reminds me why this stretch of coastline inspires everyone from painters to poets. The smells of kelp and brine drift up from the shore below—the same briny essence that no doubt inspires the culinary creations at Rick Stein’s restaurant downstairs. Moreover, the infinity pool and Cool Bar prove perfect spots for watching the world drift by.
Old Friends and New Flavours
Our South Coast adventure has a delightful reunion element–catching up with my old chum Simon Marnie at the launch of the Shoalhaven Food Network’s Seasonal Celebration of Food. Simon, the former ABC weekend presenter who used to have me on his show as a monthly guest to chat about all sorts of nonsense and travel, was hosting the launch with his typical flair. The Shoalhaven Food Network is special. It brings together the region’s creative community of food purveyors, growers, producers and hospitality venues in a way that feels genuinely collaborative rather than competitive.
It’s wonderful to see Simon in his element, championing local producers and the region’s culinary scene. But special mention must go to Di Laver – if there was ever a gong for services to food, Di should get a papal award. A former TAFE hospitality teacher turned food network founder, Di earned the unofficial title of “Queen of Hospitality” through sheer dedication to the industry. She mentored and inspired so many people in the food industry, her influence rippling through kitchens and producers across the region. What started as a local Huskisson initiative grew under her guidance to encompass Berry, Kangaroo Valley, Nowra, Milton and Ulladulla, creating connections between producers and chefs that strengthen the entire food ecosystem. The success speaks for itself – last year’s festival served over 8,000 meals across six weeks, with events selling out left and right.
Lunch and Lodging at Cupitts
Our South Coast adventure continues at Cupitts Estate, the renowned Shoalhaven winery that’s earned its stripes in James Halliday’s Wine Companion. Meeting Simon and Rosie Cupitt for a wine tasting proves enlightening, particularly when she pours their Nebbiolo. Simon quipped, “like a choir of angels crying on your tongue.” This northern Italian variety is famously picky about where it’s grown, yet it seems to thrive in the cool climate conditions.
Rosie is fun and engaging and her tasting is a masterclass in how terroir and winemaking skill can coax excellence from even the most demanding grape varieties. James Halliday’s high ratings for Cupitts’ wines, including their Merlot and Fiano, speak to the quality they’re achieving in this picturesque corner of the Shoalhaven.
But wine is just the beginning. Our lunch at Cupitts’ restaurant elevates country dining to sophisticated heights. Simon and your author opt for the ricotta gnocchi with duck ragù—slow–braised to perfection with sourdough crumbs and pecorino for $38. Meanwhile, my wife Lydia chooses the grilled snapper with red pepper sauce, complemented by tomato, fennel, and courgette for $46. Both dishes showcase the kitchen’s commitment to quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation. Between bites and catching up on old times, Simon can’t resist pulling out his Opal card to brag about his $2 seniors’ fares. Hey, there’s an upside to ageing.
After lunch, we settle into Cupitts’ smart cabins for the late arvo/night – a perfect way to extend our stay at this exceptional estate and fully immerse ourselves in the vineyard experience.
The cabins strike that ideal balance between contemporary comfort and rustic charm, nestled amongst the vines with views that sweep across rolling vineyard rows to the distant Budawang Ranges. There’s something deeply satisfying about falling asleep to the sounds of the countryside after a day spent tasting wines where they’re actually made, and catching up with old mates, knowing you can wake up and step straight back into the heart of this working winery. It’s accommodation that doesn’t just house you – it connects you to the land and the craft that makes places like Cupitts so special.
A Hip Finale at Gwylo
Our final evening brings together the whole gang – Griff and Rosie Cupitt, Simon, Lydia, and me – at Gwylo, a hip Asian restaurant in Mollymook that proves the perfect finale to our South Coast adventure. There’s something wonderful about ending a food–focused trip with new friends around a table, sharing dishes and stories as the evening unfolds.
The Perfect Coastal Equation
The South Coast has always been about more than just pretty views and sea breezes. It’s a region where food culture thrives, where winemakers push boundaries, and where festivals celebrate the marriage of land and sea that makes this corner of New South Wales so special.
From Banisters’ sophisticated coastal elegance to Cupitts’ rustic wine excellence and the warm embrace of the Shoalhaven Food Network’s fabulous community spirit, this South Coast sojourn reminds me why some places simply get under your skin.
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The Shoalhaven Food Networks features local producers and culinary experiences, with the upcoming event the Terra Firma Long Lunch at Wildwood KV featuring asada–style cooking.
For more events visit: shoalhavenfoodnetwork.com.au/events or sign up to their fab newsletter for early notifications.
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Friday 4 July – WINE & TRUFFLE DINNER at The Carrington Hotel Katoomba
This new series of exclusive culinary events will be hosted by Simon Marnie – much loved ABC presenter, food lover, and proud advocate of Australian produce and wine. Set in the grand surrounds of The Carrington Hotel, these intimate dinners feature exquisite multi–course menus matched with premium wines, celebrating the best our regions have to offer.
Get ready for an indulgent 4–course celebration of truffles, expertly paired with wines from Brown Brothers Wines.Tickets are $185 per person and bookings are essential. thecarrington.com.au/whats-on/simon-marnies-supper-club
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Cupitts Estate Winter Gourmet Getaway Package
From only $499 for a couple (midweek), this popular package includes:
Overnight stay in an Estate Villa • Two course dining experience at Cupitt’s Restaurant
Two glasses of Cupitt’s Brut Cuvée • In–room continental breakfast hamper first morning of stay
Barista–made coffee first morning of stay • Wine tasting at the Cellar Door • Local handcrafted chocolates
Handy websites and linkS
Banisters: www.bannisters.com.au
Cupitts Estate: www.cupittsestate.com.au
Shoalhaven Food Network: www.shoalhavenfoodnetwork.com.au
Visit Shoalhaven: www.shoalhaven.com