Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
Byron Bay was great BC (“Before Crystals”), but when you’re over 55 and prefer to arrive before wine–o–clock, it’s a bit too far to drive in half a day. So to experience the tropical north, look no further than Coffs Harbour, a town famous for its roadside signs selling bananas, baubles and beads.
Our accommodation in Coffs is the NRMA Darlington Beach Holiday Resort, nestled right on the beach, offering a serene break for relaxation and exploration. “Darlo” is about 25 minutes north of Coffs, but you’re rewarded with a tropical paradise away from the city centre and its strip of tired 1960s style motels.
On arrival, a madrigal of birds serenades us as we stroll along the NRMA Darlington Beach Holiday Resort grounds to our stylish villa, creating an instant embrace with nature. The villa is so spacious you could bring the grandkids, their parents, and maybe even a small circus along if necessary.
We’re impressed by the villa’s hip, muted art gallery–style lighting throughout. It’s like living inside an Instagram filter. The view of the grove of palms adds an instant tropical flavour to our northern sojourn, almost as if someone had hit the ‘tropical’ button on life’s remote control. The villa has everything from a dishwasher to a stove, so you can save some coin by cooking in your accommodation – a recurring theme in this column.
Having brekkie on the enclosed deck, we encounter kangaroos up close – a mum and joey – nonchalantly grazing as if they’re on the payroll for our entertainment. This is one of the resort’s many features. We also meet the resident kookaburra, as tame as a budgie.

Holiday Resort on bikes


The resort caters to both the energetic and the laid–back. For the grandkids, there’s a waterpark to ensure they’re thoroughly soaked and exhausted by day’s end. For seniors, more sophisticated pastimes await – a tidy nine–hole golf course, a professionally maintained bowling green, and a bubbling spa to ease the kinks of travelling. And let’s not forget the $12 cocktails at the resort’s restaurant, which quickly become a favourite evening ritual.
On our first evening, we take a culinary gamble at the NRMA Holiday Park restaurant and are handsomely rewarded. We indulge in delicious steaks, proving that gourmet treasures can indeed be found in a holiday park setting.
The next morning, after a rockmelon–sized bacon and egg roll at the restaurant, we set off on a nostalgic mission. Readers may recall I wrote about Gowings Department Store some issues back. Remember it? It was on the corner of Market and George Streets in Sydney. I used to buy my clothes there and even get a haircut! Indeed, Gowings’ notoriety in the 20th century gave birth to the saying “Gone to Gowings,” which entered the Australian lexicon to describe various states of decline or confusion – from financial ruin to drunkenness. Another notable slogan that adorned the flagship store’s facade was “Walk Thru, No One Asked to Buy.” Carn, you must remember that, right?
Well, a little birdie told us they still exist in Coffs Harbour. However, we’re disappointed to find it’s little more than a surf shop, dude. But across the road, we find another sentimental favourite: Alvey. In 2022, Alvey Reels was acquired by Gowings –now an Australian investment company, albeit no longer offering a short back and sides. The acquisition saved Alvey from being ‘cast off’.
After Alvey, we reel off to Mutton Bird Island, just beyond the jetty at Coffs. From June to November, it’s the perfect spot to catch whales in action. Joining a guide from National Parks for a free Whale Watching Tour, we stand on the island’s lookout, treated to a front–row seat as majestic humpback whales breach and spout during their annual migration. Nature’s ballet unfolds before us, with the sea breeze on our faces, making Mutton Bird Island a road trip highlight and connecting us with the wonders of the ocean. Less mobile seniors might find the schlep up the island’s hump to the whale–watching side mildly taxing, but sprightly seniors will be fine.
We then make our way to the enchanting Butterfly House in Bonville. Stepping through its sealed doors, we find ourselves transported to a mesmerising realm filled with fluttering wings and vivid hues. The custom–designed tropical habitat, perfectly suited to the Coffs region, provides an ideal sanctuary for a wide array of exotic butterflies. Watching these delicate creatures flit around their glasshouse home inspires awe and delight among the children present, their exclamations of wonder echoing through the space. Caught up in the excitement, I can’t help but join their chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’, until my wife pins me with a look reminiscent of a butterfly carefully preserved in a collector’s book.
Lastly, a visit to Coffs Harbour wouldn’t be complete without a pilgrimage to the iconic Big Banana. Erected in 1964, this gigantic yellow fruit has been a proud landmark on the Pacific Highway, drawing tourists to savour chocolate–dipped bananas (a personal favourite) and snap obligatory selfies with its enormous fibreglass facade. The brainchild of visionary John Landi, this striking yellow curve was designed to lure passing motorists to purchase his bananas. Inspired by Hawaii’s “Big Pineapple,” it earned the distinction of becoming Australia’s first “Big Thing.” Today, it’s transformed into a banana–themed Disneyland of sorts, offering a waterpark, mini–golf, laser tag for the grandkids, and even an ice–skating rink (because nothing says tropical paradise like ice–skating, right?). A day pass at fifty–nine bucks ensures endless entertainment for the grandkids.
As we leave Coffs Harbour, I can’t help but feel a deep appreciation for the eclectic experiences and whimsical charm of this tropical corner of NSW. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a thrill–seeker, or simply in search of a good cocktail at the NRMA Holiday Park, Coffs Harbour offers a slice of paradise with a twist of Big Things.
Electrifying Secret
Psst! If you’re cruising around in an EV, you’re in luck. NRMA Holiday Park Darlington boasts villas equipped with your very own personal EV charge point. So, you can roll up, plug in, and relax, knowing your car will be fully charged and ready for your next adventure. No more hunting for charging stations or stressing about running out of juice in the middle of nowhere. Just pure, unadulterated holiday bliss with all the conveniences right at your fingertips.
Websites
www.nrmaparksandresorts.com.au/darlington-beach
www.bigbanana.com
www.butterflyhouse.com.au
https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/muttonbird-island-nature-reserve