From Farm to Fork: Exploring Shoalhaven’s Gourmet Foodie Scene

by LukeAdmin

Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe

Ah, Huskisson Beach Motel. It’s the kind of place where you can smell the ocean and dream in Piña colada. An early check–in gives us the luxury of time to unwind and wonder why our room key looks like it came from the set of a 1970s crime drama. But the accommodation is excellent, with our balcony overlooking a pretty white ribbon sand. We like the convenience of this motel too, with Huskie’s food strip almost at your doorstep.

After successfully navigating the perilous roundabouts from Huskisson to Nowra, we’re rewarded with an afternoon tea at Farmgate, where, psst!, they do killer baked dinners every Sunday. The Devonshire tea today is part of the Shoalhaven Food Network. This is run by a cadre of kindly souls who wish to support restaurants and the hospitality sector. Spearheading this network is the spirited Di Laver, who is a national treasure. Indeed, my chum ABC’s Simon Marnie says, “Di’s been a powerhouse for the TAFE and the training world and is why the region punches above its weight in the hospitality scene.”

We make a pit stop at Tara Distillery. Nestled in the scenic outskirts, this gem of a distillery offers tours and tastings. We sample their exquisite hooch, crafted with local botanicals and a touch of the Blarney Stone. Owners Alarna Doherty (Founder) and Ben Stephenson have lived and worked in Ireland, honing their distillation skills.

We enjoy the yarns about local moonshine more than the usual boiling point of mash at 105 degrees. This is where other distillers let themselves down. We try Ben’s Irish moonshine, known as Poitín (pronounced roughly as poteen or pocheen in English), which makes my eyes roll like a poker machine jackpot.

Dinner is at Ponte 10 Bar and Dining, where we experience a Pasta Buoy collaboration dinner with Ponte’s Head Chef, Sam Smith, who’s rated in the top four chefs in Australia! He even cooked a whole camel for the Saudi Crown Prince! The combination of exquisite pasta and picturesque surroundings means we don’t remember the names of the dishes, but remember the experience. Dessert is a donut–inspired dish. So with all the heavy pasta dishes, I’ve had so many carbs I could be used as a flotation device on the river before me.

It’s here we meet waiter, Tyrone. Tyrone is simply a young lad who Di Laver has mentored—like so many—in the hospo world. Watching Tyrone bustle about, guided by Di’s wisdom, adds a heartwarming touch to the culinary adventure, making the experience all the more memorable.

After a restful night, we check out of the Huskie Motel and enjoy the bitumen coast walk – great for seniors – even with a walker. From Huskie, we point the car to Milton, to shop. Milton, with its charming streets and boutique shops, reminds me of Leura: a village where cashed–up Sydneyites come to escape the city.

Lunch at Milton’s Altar Bar is almost a religious experience, sandstone church notwithstanding. Here we meet Tommy, he was a chef at Flying Fish, grew up in Sydney and took up the Head Chef position at Altar Bar after moving to Shoalhaven. Tommy’s dishes means art transcends food. His beef makes me weep.

We follow it up with dessert at Prickly Pear, where the sweets are as delightful as the name. I devour their Limoncello Tiramisu with the enthusiasm of a child on Christmas morning, leaving traces in my beard. The dessert is a perfect blend of tart and sweet, a fitting end to our gastronomic Milton sojourn.

We wash down dessert with a selection of ales from Dangerous Ales Distillery at the historic Milton Hotel. Here we sample some beers from one of the top boutique breweries in Australia, run by hatted chef Damian Martin. The combination of history, beer, and a chef named “Damo” is memorable, that is, if I hadn’t drunk so many damned fine craft beers.

We then drive to Bundanon. The one–hour journey to 170 Riversdale Road, Illaroo NSW.

Bundanon, nestled in the serene landscape of Illaroo, is the artistic legacy of the Boyd family. Whether you’re an artist seeking inspiration or a visitor looking to unwind, the accommodation at Bundanon provides a peaceful retreat infused with creativity and history. Gifted to the Australian people by Arty Boyd in 1993, Bundanon serves as a living, breathing art centre and museum. The Boyd family, a dynasty of painters, sculptors, and musicians, have imbued this place with their creative spirit. The sprawling property features Boyd’s studio, art galleries, and extensive bushland, offering a sanctuary for artists and nature enthusiasts alike. We love the roos outside our window. Walking through Bundanon, one can almost hear the echoes of the Boyd family’s conversations about art and life, making it a truly inspirational visit.

The accommodation at Bundanon is a perfect blend of comfort and rustic charm, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. These well–appointed rooms reflect the artistic heritage of the Boyd family. Windows offer charming views of the surrounding bushland, providing a tranquil backdrop for relaxation and reflection. Each room is equipped with modern amenities, ensuring a comfortable stay while still feeling connected to nature.

However, the highlight for us is the Shoalhaven Food Group’s Long Lunch, prepared by chef Doug Innes–Will. I’m not a food writer, but in the past 20 years, I’ve written a lot about food. Doug’s entree was a rockstar, and probably the best I’ve had in my many years as a travel writer. Doug, who has an illustrious career that spans over two decades, has worked in some of the finest kitchens in Australia and abroad. His innovative approach to cuisine, combined with a deep respect for local ingredients, shines through in every dish. The Long Lunch is a culinary journey that showcases Doug’s talent and passion, leaving diners, like yours truly, in awe of the exquisite flavours and artistic presentation.

Our lunch includes a Corroboree and entry to an art exhibition in the gallery. So this cultural experience leaves us both ‘full and fulfilled’.

As we drive back north, we carry the memories of a weekend filled with good food, good people, beautiful views, and the kind of experiences that make you appreciate the foodie tradition of the Shoalhaven. They’ve got something special going on down there.

Reflecting on our journey, it’s clear that the Shoalhaven region’s hospitality and culinary excellence are deeply intertwined with the mentorship of dedicated individuals like Di Laver. Her nurturing guidance has shaped many young talents, transforming them into world–class chefs or simply kids with a sense of direction. Mentors like Di are vital, not only for their professional wisdom but for the support and inspiration they provide to the next generation. In a world where success is often measured by accolades and achievements, it’s heartwarming to see the profound impact of mentorship on the lives and careers of young people. This trip has been a testament to the power of guidance, passion, and community in shaping a thriving culinary landscape.

Why not make it your goal to visit the Shoal?

FACT BOX

The Shoalhaven Food Network is a not–for–profit organisation that champions the diverse range of cafes, eateries, clubs, pubs, vineyards, breweries, and local producers in the area.

This lively coalition of Shoalhaven’s finest producers, restaurants, brewers, cafes, industry specialists, and team members is continuously seeking new ways to highlight the best the region has to offer.

Join Shoalhaven Foodies for advance notifications, deals and discounts on events. shoalhavenfoodnetwork.com.au

Check out the Members Directory on www.Shoalhavenfoodnetwork.com.au for the best bakers, butchers, brewers and so much more in the Shoalhaven.

Live Entertainment: Dinner and show at Shoalhaven Entertainment Centre.
Check website to pre–book: shoalhavenentertainmentcentre.com.au
Nowra Players for current shows: nowraplayers.com
Milton Theatre: miltontheatre.com.au

Local Markets: From Berry to Bawley Point, you’ll find local produce, fresh veggies, seafood, arts and crafts markets.
shoalhavenfoodnetwork.com.au/our-directory/markets
whitefeatherdesigns.shop/market stalls

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