Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
An octogenarian family member recently lamented the lack of “Australians” in the CBD. “It’s wall–to–wall Chinese,” she sighed. “The restaurant was full of them.” “What part of the city were you eating, exactly?” I asked. “Chinatown,” she said. This got me thinking. It’s been yonks since I’ve visited Chinatown. Moreover, I learned Cantonese at night school in my early 20s and it was time to embarrass myself and order dishes incorrectly. (Why have you served me a chicken in a top hat on a skateboard?)
The only place to stay for this Asian themed sojourn is the Vibe Hotel Darling Harbour. Darling Harbour?? That’s the other side of Chinatown, right? Wrong. The hotel should be called Vibe Chinatown as it’s only a chopstick away from Dixon St.
The train is a cinch if you’re chugging it but if you’re driving, parking at the hotel is conveniently over the road at Cinema Parking. The Vibe validates your parking ticket so it’s only forty bucks for 24 hours. The hotel has a smart cafe downstairs for brekkie – one of the best hotel cafes we’ve noted in our travels for while it must be said – and upstairs is a sparkling rooftop pool and groovy bar called Above 319. The bar is blooming with flowers and looks like an alcoholic’s Floriade. Now there’s an idea! So with the pressing city heat, Mrs Pictures and I popped up with towels for a dip. But the pool was filled with honey brown lithe young things drinking cocktails and sunbathing in thongs and tiny bikinis. So we took our love handles to the bar and took a dip in a gin and tonic instead.
The Vibe’s rooms are funky and lush, with gorgeous soft carpet and touches of Middle Eastern luxury such as bespoke lighting options and Ottoman–chic golden screens. We note the rockstar bathrooms with rain showers. And our favourite: Simba Pillows on a very comfy king sized bed. Psst! If you’re a history buff like us, do pop into James Lane behind the Vibe to see the interesting gallery of historical objects collected from archaeologists revamping the area: clay pipes, marbles, and Victorian medicine bottles. Congrats Sydney Council!
That afternoon we stroll from the Vibe to the Chinese Garden of Friendship – US Spy Balloons notwithstanding. Hey, it’s only a 5min walk according to Google Maps but felt even shorter after coffee at the Vibe’s cafe. Like most over 55’s, we love gardens. And this tranquil leafy oasis in the middle of the city is one of the best kept secrets in Sydney. Opened in 1988 for the Bicentenary, the garden is based on ancient Chinese principles of Taoism and imitates the Chinese landscape paintings of mountains and water in miniature. Modelled after the secret gardens of the Ming dynasty, it’s bigger than you think. A bucolic Tardis. On leaving we meet a senior couple with their Asian grandson. We ask them to pose for a quick photo.
For dinner, we eat at Mamak. This award–winning Malaysian restaurant, with branches in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane is named after the roadside stalls of Kuala Lumpur which peddle spicy Indian Malay street food. You know it’s good as the queues are down Goulburn Street. Psst! One of the joys of being over 55 is we prefer eating early in order to be home for Midsomer Murders. So get there just before 6 pm and guess what, no queues!
In Dixon St, on Friday night there is a vibrant Night Market. Psst! Seniors, you may wish to bring your mask with you as the crowd is right up in your face. Social distancing is only a vague construct in Chinatown. As we trawl through interesting stalls, suddenly we hear the throbbing pulse of a drum and the clanging of cheap cymbals as a dragon dancing team weaves through the crowd. As you can imagine this imbues the atmosphere with a wonderful sense of occasion and authenticity as the colourful dancing team parts the crowd like Moses at the Red Sea Chinese Takeaway. But it did dragon a bit (groan).
At the end of Dixon St, you’ll find another queue for the Emperor’s Puff. No, not a tobacconist. This hole–in–the–wall takeaway sells Chinese sweets: the specialty is deep–fried balls filled with cream. Try it! We did. It’s horrible.
From here, poke around the corner and take a right at Hay St and into Harbour St to find Sydney’s version of Singapore. This was truly a surprise. Hey, I thought Chinatown was simply Dixon St. Not so! There is a huuuge park with a DJ and Chinese lanterns and families and a palisade of funky Asian restaurants. It’s exciting and exotic and unique in Australia. There are little lane ways where you’ll find hip (but kinda pricey) Japanese Restaurants or Korean BBQs where you pay money to cook your own food (why?). And if you’re schlepping the grandkids, there’s a fabulous mini playground with swings and putt–putt mini golf and other fun stuff for the grandkids.
Truly impressed with Chinatown and its development, we stroll back to the Vibe and to the rooftop bar to drink with beautiful people before settling in for Midsomer Murders.
Fact Box #1
Boasting a heated rooftop pool, Above 319 – a vibrant rooftop garden bar, and an enviable location close to one of Sydney’s top entertainment precincts, Vibe Hotel Darling Harbour is one of the newest lifestyle hotels in the heart of Sydney.
International Convention Centre (ICC) / 10–minute walk
Pitt Street Mall / 10–minute walk
Sydney Tower / 10–minute walk
Town Hall Station / 5–minute walk
Chinatown / 5–minute walk!
Rooms from $217 per night
Fact Box #2
Blue Mountains Equinox – Autumn Celebration of the Senses
Equinox – Autumn Celebration of the Senses highlights and unites all that is great about the Blue Mountains in Autumn over four weekends between March 10 – April 2.
Equinox will feature free and ticketed events for locals and visitors of all ages among one of the most recognised ancient landscapes on Earth.
There’ll be an opulent masquerade ball, various FEAST culinary experiences, outdoor adventures, magic, live music vibes, markets, fireside storytelling, stargazing, Indigenous workshops and guided tours.
For more info contact Blue Mountains Tourism at eo@bmtourism.com.au