Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
A weekend at the Carrington Hotel proves that sometimes the best adventures happen within the building
The Carrington Hotel looms over Katoomba like a grand dame. And unlike its flashier neighbour, the Hydro Majestic, perched dramatically on the cliff edge like a socialite posing for Instagram, The Carrington has something equally appealing: location.
The train station sits directly opposite – a stroke of genius for those 1920s honeymooners who arrived without a motorcar, clutching their leather suitcases and romantic notions. These days, it’s equally handy for thrifty seniors who prefer public transport ($2 fares) to navigating the winding mountain roads in the fog.
Accommodation with architectural integrity
We’re staying in the Tomah Suite, where the grand canopy bed dominates like furniture that escaped from a stately home and refuses extradition. The Chesterfield lounge practically demands you sprawl across it with wine and literature.
The shmicko bathroom could accommodate a small wedding reception, while some ‘traditional rooms’ still feature bathrooms located just outside the room, a charming reminder of when shared facilities were standard rather than grounds for scathing online reviews. These days, most guests expect ensuites, which we mercifully possess.
The Carrington’s history doesn’t whisper from corners – it announces itself with the confidence of someone who’s earned speaking rights. Dating back to the 19th century, the hotel displays original features that make heritage enthusiasts like us weak at the knees. Art Nouveau stained glass catches the light like stolen jewellery, there’s a dining room from an F Scott Fitzgerald novel, while the billiard room and library tell stories of a long lost era.
Royal accommodations and mechanical determination
We adore the magnificent stained–glass dome that was built in the 20s specifically for the Duke and Duchess of York, who later became monarchs – because apparently even future kings require architectural flattery. There’s even a secret mezzanine level where Their Royal Highnesses–es were sequestered from us ordinary humans, proving that VIP treatment was invented long before celebrity culture made it insufferable.
The fab original 1927 Otis lift continues operating with the cheerful determination of vintage machinery that refuses retirement. It’s the sort of lift that inspires small prayers – not from terror, but from respect for its century–long commitment to vertical transportation despite deserving superannuation benefits by now.
One of the hotel’s most intriguing features is the erstwhile widow’s walk – atmospheric and slightly spooky in the best possible way. It’s the kind of place where you half–expect to encounter the ghost of a Victorian lady in mourning. This walk is under restoration; indeed the hotel is in a perpetual state of resto – like the harbour bridge. Once they finish, they must start again, bless.
Liquid assets and historical convenience
The old powerhouse has been transformed into Carrington Brewery, its chimney a beloved landmark rather than industrial pollution. We venture into the cellar and discover French reds from the ‘60s and ‘70s at prices that would make Sydney wine bar proprietors question their career choices and possibly their sanity.
When evening arrives, we meet chum, former ABC broadcaster Simon Marnie at The Old City Bank Brasserie, housed in what was once an actual bank before becoming a saloon and finally evolving into a place serving upmarket pub food without pretension. Simon, recovering from hip replacement surgery and at the Carrington hosting a truffle–inspired food event, shares the story of a Byron Bay friend requesting directions to the Carrington. “Step off the train,” he advised, “tell the cabby ‘take me to the Carrington!’ The fifteen–second journey probably cost more than the train fare.
The Brasserie atmosphere remains refreshingly unpretentious – the kind of establishment where ordering a second bottle doesn’t trigger concerned looks or financial counselling. Downstairs, The Old City Bank Bar maintains proper pub standards, with weekend live music transforming the space into something approaching festive without requiring participation in group activities.
Psst! They’ve also opened the Baroque Room for intimate concerts by touring acts, creating a speak easy atmosphere that conjures images of secret passwords and prohibition–era shenanigans.
Telephonic evolution and authentic character
The hotel’s telephone number tells its own story of technological progress. Once simply “1 Katoomba – the entire town’s connection to civilisation flowed through The Carrington’s switchboard. Today, additional digits accommodate our modern compulsion to complicate simple systems, but the original number persists like a bureaucratic fossil.
Summing up
What I love about The Carrington is its refusal to apologise for being exactly what it is: a grand old hotel that’s earned its mountain position through more than a century of welcoming travellers who understand the difference between character and a marketing budget.
This raises an obvious question: why would anyone choose a Travelodge for equivalent money? It’s like purchasing flat–pack furniture when vintage shops offer pieces with actual dovetail joints and timber that wasn’t previously recycled Coles pallets. The Carrington provides authentic character that can’t be manufactured – grand staircases built by craftsmen who understood pride in workmanship, stained glass positioned to catch light precisely so, and stories embedded in every creaking floorboard.
In a world obsessed with boutique hotels and design–forward accommodations, The Carrington stands as evidence that sometimes the best luxury is simply occupying space with genuine narrative.
After all, the most interesting places don’t need to explain themselves to people who think history is just old stuff that needs updating.
THE CARRINGTON Escape Package
Price: Starting at $370 for two guests
Includes: Overnight midweek stay in Colonial Room, breakfast, and two–course dinner in Grand Dining Room
Availability: Throughout the year | Additional Information
Three different packages currently available
Website: thecarrington.com.au/stay/packages