Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
From heritage charm to buzzing culture, Newcastle has it all – and it’s just up the road
Well, I’m mortified. Seven years of penning this column for you – my loyal readers – and twenty more as the senior travel writer for Australia’s leading travel magazine, and I’ve not once bothered to write about Newcastle. Newy! Just a couple of hours up the road from us! It’s practically waving at me from the driveway.
But let me tell you, it’s not the coal–dusted industrial pit you might recall from a 1977 school excursion. No, this Newcastle is a revelation: galleries, buzzing bars, museums galore, and a working harbour so picturesque it might make Sydney blush.
Stay: The Sweet Spot
We set up camp at Terminus Apartments, which, true to the name, are at Newcastle’s erstwhile train terminus (now tram terminus) and smack bang in the middle of everything, cool bars, galleries, cafés, beaches. Once part of the original Terminus Hotel, a historic establishment built in the late 19th century to cater to railway travellers, the property has since been re–imagined into sleek, modern apartments. The nods to its heritage make staying here all the more charming – a perfect blend of Newcastle’s history and its contemporary renaissance.
The apartment is pristine and punches above its weight, with a kitchen boasting a dishwasher, a laundry (always handy when you continually spill Shiraz on all your white shirts like they’re a Pollock canvas), and distant views of the harbour. And the shower? Perfect. A blissful downpour from a shower head the size of a hubcap.
The decor is chic – think mid–century modern with a wink – complete with leopard paintings and funky chairs that dare you to Instagram them. And it’s not just quiet; it’s hermetically sealed. The only sound, the faint crooning of distant container ships.
Now, readers of this column will know we often stay in apartments because, in theory, we can whip up a modest meal and feel very “local.” In practice, East Newcastle’s food scene is so utterly compelling that our stovetop goes unused.
Day 1: Harbour Happenings
Post–check–in, lunch is right across the road at Customs House, a grand heritage building steeped in history. Built in 1877, it originally housed the region’s customs offices when Newcastle was a thriving port of coal and trade. Today, its veranda offers a front–row seat to watch the tugboats at work – grumpy little terriers dragging their reclining skyscrapers across the harbour. The contrast between its sandstone elegance and the modern energy of the waterfront makes it a perfect spot for lunch. (Psst! The balcony tables often have ‘reserved’ signs on them when they are not – do ask.)
Afterwards, a stroll along the boardwalk has us hanging our heads in shame for not having written about Newcastle sooner. It’s utterly charming!
Day 2: History and the Arts
The Newcastle Museum, set within the Honeysuckle Railway Workshops precinct, is a treasure trove of the city’s industrial past. It chronicles Newcastle’s journey from convict settlement to industrial world powerhouse, showcasing artefacts that capture the grit and resilience of the coal–mining era. I find it particularly moving. A highlight is an exhibition on “Hollywood,” the informal settlement that sprang up during the Great Depression, vividly depicting the human spirit amidst hardship.
Nearby is The Lock–Up, a heritage police station built in 1861, now an edgy contemporary art gallery. Walking through its Victorian cells – complete with iron bars and a ‘padded cell’ – you can almost hear echoes of the past. Today’s exhibitions often feel like a bold juxtaposition to the sombre history, such as the current AI–themed display, which blends modern technology with the eerie, time–worn setting. Creepy? Um, a bit. But utterly fascinating – and free!
Ocean Baths: A Step Back in Time
We end the day – white hotel towels in tow – for a swim at the Newcastle Ocean Baths, just a five–minute stroll from our digs. There’s something so marvellously 1920s about ocean baths, isn’t there? Standing there, towel in hand, you half expect a brass band to strike up or a moustachioed lifeguard to twirl his whistle. The Art Deco facade and sun–drenched concrete seating feel straight out of a Max Dupain photograph.
Day 3: Mayfield’s Vintage Charm
A short jaunt to Mayfield (10mins by car) feels like driving up Newtown’s King Street – edgy, eclectic, and bursting with vintage finds. Coliseum Antiques is the highlight, a sprawling treasure trove where you’d furnish a set for The Sullivans. We leave Mayfield and Islington’s many vintage markets with a newfound appreciation for Newcastle’s vintage cred.
Dining: Casual Excellence
Dinner is a serendipitous stumble into Sticky Rice, just up Scott Street – a 3min walk from Terminus. Picture this: my wife and I, fresh from a dip at the ocean baths, encounter a jogger – clad in little more than her underwear and her sense of direction – who insists Sticky Rice is killer. She’s right. The Thai dishes are sublime.
On our final night, we dine at Rosina’s, a cosy Italian joint just a two–minute walk from Terminus. Armed with a bottle of plonk from the bottle–o next door in a gorgeous old bank, we devour gnocchi so good I start speaking with our hands – hence the extra white shirts.
Final Morning: Coffee by the Water
Our last breakfast at Lynch’s Hub, right on the waterfront, cements Newcastle in our hearts. Housed in a restored heritage building that once served as a maritime warehouse, the café blends historic charm with modern comfort. The coffee is perfection, the views unparalleled, and the vibe… well, it feels like Newcastle is inviting us to stay just a little longer. Their chorizo and egg rolls, warm and bursting with flavour, are the perfect accompaniment to the serene harbour backdrop.
Conclusion
Once a drab town shrouded in coal dust and defined by its industrial grind, Newcastle has transformed into a vibrant city brimming with art, culture, and a refreshing sense of renewal. The harbour, once a workhorse of the coal trade, now sparkles with life, tugboats weaving their way through waters flanked by art galleries and hip cafés. It’s a place where the grit of the past meets the gloss of the present, a city that wears its history proudly but refuses to be tethered to it. Newcastle isn’t just a destination; it’s a story of reinvention.
Terminus Apartments
Situated in the heart of Newcastle, Terminus Apartments offer a tranquil and modern retreat with all the amenities for a comfortable stay. Ideal for seniors seeking a car–free getaway, these apartments are conveniently located adjacent to the tram station—you’ll arrive without the hassle of navigating busy roads.
Features include: Fully equipped kitchens with dishwashers • In–room laundry facilities • Spacious, light–filled interiors
Harbour views and serene surroundings, with only the distant sounds of ships
Perfectly positioned within walking distance of major attractions, dining venues, and the waterfront, Terminus Apartments serve as an excellent base for exploring Newcastle. Prices for studio apartments start at $240, depending on the season/occupancy/availability etc. Just call em!
For guests without cars, the apartments are located right between the last two tram stops. Guests can alight at Newcastle Interchange train station and jump on the tram to Queens Wharf, then it is a quick walk up Scott Street to Terminus.
Visit their website at www.terminushotelnewcastle.com.au to book your stay.
Pensioner’s Portside
Just steps away from Terminus Apartments, the ferry terminal offers an easy and scenic way to explore Newcastle’s picturesque harbour. Psst! With a Gold Senior/Pensioner Opal card, enjoy unlimited ferry rides for no more than $2.50 a day. Whether it’s a leisurely trip across the harbour to Stockton for a beach stroll or a front–row seat to watch container ships glide past, the ferry is a convenient and affordable gateway to Newcastle’s waterfront charm. It’s not just transport – it’s a quintessential Newcastle experience.
Handy websites and links
The Lock–Up: A contemporary art space housed in a historic 19th–century police station, offering exhibitions and events that blend history with modern art. https://thelockup.org.au/
Newcastle Museum: Delve into Newcastle’s rich industrial heritage and vibrant present through engaging exhibits and interactive displays. https://www.newcastlemuseum.com.au/
Coliseum Antiques: The largest antique centre in Newcastle, featuring 26 dealer spaces within a heritage–listed building, offering a diverse array of antiques and collectibles. https://www.coliseumantiques.com.au/
Customs House: An iconic heritage–listed building located on Newcastle Harbour, offering a modern Australian restaurant and one of the city’s largest beer gardens. https://customshouse.net.au/