Words by Dorian Mode Photography by Lydia Thorpe
“The sights, sounds, and smells of the bush, with its brilliant sunshine and invigorating breezes, make my blood tingle.”
So wrote Miles Franklin, Tumut’s most famous literary daughter. And who am I to argue with such a vivid account? But there’s more to this lower Snowy Valleys gem than breezes and birdsong. Tumut is a town steeped in rich history, nestled in natural splendour, and, yes, it’s a palindrome. Like Glenelg or Budgewoi (okay, just seeing if you’re paying attention). And in autumn, Tumut dons her finest colours as avenues of deciduous elms transform into a golden canopy, their leaves cascading like nature’s confetti.
Stay: Elm Cottage
Our home base is Elm Cottage, a tranquil retreat just 10 minutes out of town. Like sports broadcasters, travel writers aren’t supposed to have favourites, but I’m outing myself here. Elm Cottage has crept into my soul. Perched above the Goobarragandra River (The Goob), the property boasts several new improvements. Sculptures dot the grounds, adding a touch of whimsy to the already serene setting, with unique artworks blending seamlessly into the natural environment. These thoughtful additions make Elm Cottage not just a place to stay but a destination unto itself.
For those craving a bit of luxury, the cottages feature spacious, well–appointed interiors with modern amenities, ensuring a comfortable stay while still maintaining their rustic charm. A newly installed EV charging station makes Elm Cottage eco–conscious, a forward–thinking touch for travellers looking to minimise their footprint.
If you’re travelling with four–legged companions, it’s wonderfully dog friendly. The dog–safe balconies mean your furry friend can take in the breathtaking views alongside you without a care in the world.
However, for fishing tragics like me, Elm Cottage is bliss on a stick – or fly rod. The new steps leading down to the river, complete with a rest seat halfway, make accessing the water easier than ever. And what a river! The private stretch of the Goobarragandra is perfect for fly–fishing, though I’d describe fly–fishing as an expensive and highly inefficient way to catch fish. Still, standing in the cool waters, watching birds and wildlife as the world drifts away, there’s nothing like it.
Fishing Tales and Coffee Stops
Breakfast in Tumut starts at the Coffee Pedaler, a bustling café with coffee so good it’s worth writing home about. Fuelled by caffeine, I head to the local fishing and camping store to chat with David, the owner, about the state of the river. “Too many cormorants,” he says, referring to the birds colloquially known as “shags” (English slang for copulating). It’s not the greatest sales pitch for a fishing store, but it’s honest, and it adds to the quirky charm of Tumut. In gratitude, I buy another fly rod I don’t need.
A Short Drive to Adelong
Twenty minutes from Tumut lies Adelong, a sleepy town with a golden past. Its gold mill ruins are arguably the best–preserved in Australia, an open–air museum that whispers tales of fortune seekers and hard labour. There is a senior–friendly walk right down to the falls. In town we stumble upon Antiques Madam Curios, and later a delightful antique shop in the old Adelong hospital, just steps from the falls. It’s the sort of place you can lose yourself in, discovering treasures from another time.
Sweeping Success
Back in Tumut, we visit the Tumut Broom Factory, a family–run operation for three generations. Andrew, the third–generation broom maker, regales us with stories of the trade as he makes brooms and I pick out transport for my mother–in–law. Practical and transportable, it’s the perfect souvenir. The factory is a living testament to craftsmanship, an antidote to mass production. And it’s right across the road form the Tumut info centre.
Museums and Miles Franklin
I adore country museums as they tell you so much about the town. The Tumut Museum holds fascinating artefacts from the area’s past, including items related to Miles Franklin, who was born nearby. Having lectured in creative writing at uni, the paying homage to the doyen of Australian literature, is a must for me. It’s here that Tumut’s history really comes alive, connecting the dots between the natural beauty of the region and the people who’ve called it home.
Conclusion
Tumut is a place where the past and present meet in perfect harmony. It’s a town of quiet charm, where rivers run clear, gold mill ruins whisper stories, and the air is rich with the echoes of literary giants like Miles Franklin. Standing by the Goobarragandra River, watching the water shimmer in the late afternoon sun, I’m reminded of Franklin’s words: “To know the beauty of the country is to know the beginning of all things.”
Tumut is a place that feels like a beginning, a restorative escape from the chaos of modern life, and a celebration of everything that makes rural Australia so remarkable.
FACT BOX
Elm Cottage, just 10 minutes outside Tumut, offers luxury self–contained accommodation with modern amenities and spacious interiors. Perfect for anglers and nature lovers, it features a private stretch of the Goobarragandra River, dog–safe balconies, and eco–friendly touches like an EV charging station. Recent upgrades include whimsical sculptures and riverside steps with a rest seat halfway, making it an ideal retreat for relaxation or adventure. Prices range from $255 – $283 per night. Visit https://www.elmcottage.com.au for details.
HANDY WEBSITES & LINKS
Elm Cottage Tumut: https://www.elmcottage.com.au
Riverglade Caravan Park: https://www.riverglade.com.au/
Tumut Broom Factory: https://www.tumutriversidebroomfactory.com
Tumut Museum: https://www.tumutmuseum.com.au
Adelong Falls Gold Mill Ruins: https://www.visitnsw.com/destinations/snowy-mountains/tumut-area/adelong/attractions/adelong-falls-gold-mill-ruins
Coffee Pedaler: https://www.coffeepedaler.com.au
Visit Tumut: https://www.visittumut.com.au